Uk Viper Club Banner

Viper Service Info and Tips

Intorduction and Disclaimer


Be aware that this is a knowledge base of information built up from owners experience and opinion, where possible we will try and be accurate with part numbers or procedures but you can not disassociate yourself from responsibility, we will however do just that. Information is not warranted or guaranteed to be correct, not to kill you, blow up your engine or cause minor bodily harm, If you are going to get under a one and a half ton car supported by a stack of 2x4’s you're on your own.

This article is not yet complete or may need updating.  If you feel you have something to contribute please get in touch webmaster@driveviper.co.uk   




UK Chrysler part numbers for VIPER service fluids |
Order No Part No CX Description Approx £ Notes
05103526EA 021E03 Lubricant GEA £16.45 Diff oil
05103524EA 021D06 oil Power Ste £5.73 steering fluid GEN 1&2
05103527EA - oil Power Ste £4.96 steering fluid GEN 3&4
05103522EA 021E02 Additive Axle £3.96 Friction modifier
04874459EA - Lubricant Transmission £16.22 Synthetic trans oil
04267020AB 004C05 Antifreeze 3 year £10.00 Green coloured
05103532EB - Antifreeze 5 year £16.90 Red Coloured

C in front of part number is for dealer computer systems and not part of part number

Trouble codes (MIL, or simply the engine light)

If you Check engine light is on and you don't have a code reader you could try this procedure.

Cycle the ignition as follows within 5 seconds (nb on is just before start)

on - off - on - off - on

now count the number of times the MIL flashes, there will be a pause between each number of the code, and a longer pause between each trouble code. On SRT's the codes will be displayed on the LCD panel in the speedo (confirmed on 2009)

once you have your trouble codes you can use google to look them up.

VIN Decode


If you want to know whats hidden in you vin code, take a look here

http://www.compnine.com/vid.php


Engine Oil


Sorry this is so easy if you cant figure it out you should probably put down the spanner. However here are some tips

The sump is 8-10L so that small washing up bowl isn't going to handle that, get two.
There are now three MOPAR oil filters.
  1. Original Fitted Gen 1 through 3 and the jeep, Chrysler should have loads (Mopar 05281090) with Mobil1 10W-30 oil
  2. New Viper specific, as above but incorporating the new Gen 4 design white filter with a black viper logo on it (Mopar 05037836)
  3. Gen 4, not compatible with previous years but new design provides for better flow and higher oil pressures.

Other popular filters in use are

Filter Part No
Mobil 1 M1-204


Transmission Oil

Who said vipers don’t have auto boxes because no one thought to tell the transmission and it rather likes to drink ATF. Gen1 and Gen2 cars were factory filled with DEXRON III ATF fluid. Later Gen 2 were switched to Castrol Syntorque which is a fully synthetic gear lube rather than the ATF but is also made out of gold at approx £20 a litre. It is a recommended replacement fluid to reduce Neutral Gear Rattle (NGR)In earlier cars. There should be a label stuck to the side of the transmission near the fill hole advising the use if DEXRONIII or on earlier cars DEXRON II. the later transmissions had different Syncros so the oil was changed to Castrol Syntorc..

Fluid change procedure.

  1. Jack the vehicle up and support on stands.
  2. Remove the Transmission cover plate which is the plate bolted to the transmission tunnel with 20 bolts, so when you are done with those you will know your lefty Lucy from Righty Tighty.
  1. Remove the fill plug. 3/8 rachet..
  2. Remove Drain plug. Don’t forget your bowl to collect the oil.
  3. Let it all drain out, so time for a cuppa.
  4. Refit drain plug and torque to TBA FtLB
  5. Fill Transmission with your selected fluid. This is where the fun starts. One of the easier ways seems to be to use 1L bottles and a small length of tube so that you can get the tube in the fill hole and the bottle up as high as possible and squeeze it in. If you are using the synthetic lube don’t even consider a long length of tube and standing beside the vehicle as the stuff is so thick you will be there into next week. The transmission is full when the fluid is at the bottom of the fill hole. So fill it until a little runs back out.
  6. Refit Fill plug and torque to TBA FtLB
  7. Refit the transmission cover plate.
  8. Lower car and your done.

Diff Fluid

stub

Power steering Fluid

Simplest method which flushes most of the power steering system with new fluid is as follows

  1. Drain the power steering reservoir with a suction pump.
  2. Refill to the cold mark and replace cap.
  3. Start the Engine
  4. Turn the steering Lock to Lock three times.
  5. Turn off engine
  6. Repeat this process 3 times.
Whilst not the most economical on Power steering fluid this method replaces much of the fluid in the system without having to remove any pipe work or introducing air into the system.

It is also important to ensure the power steering cap is securely tightened and remains so. The cap can have a habit of loosening and coming off on its own so it is advised to check it every time you have the hood up. Alternatively there are kits available that prevent the cap coming loose.

Note: The power steering reservoir is directly above the exhaust header and power steering fluid is flammable. There are cases of engine fires as a result of missing reservoir caps.

Brake Fluid

stub.

Clutch Fluid

Suck the old fluid out of the reservoir with a large syringe leaving just a small amount of fluid in the bottom
  1. Refill to the cold mark (with a decent brand Dot4 brake fluid) and replace the cap.
  2. Depress the clutch 30 times
  3. Repeat this process 2 more times, this method changes most of the fluid within the system

Coolant

50/50 mix - 6 litres of coolant/6 litres of distilled water for a complete change

Red or Green? Both are ethylene Glycol based coolants the Red coolant is long life 5 year OAT coolant and standard fill on most modern vehicles, the green is the older three year life coolant which was standard fill on Gen 1 and 2 vipers. The Red and Green coolants are reported not to be compatible and mixing the two can result in a gel forming and blocking parts of the cooling system resulting in overheating. It is also reported that replacing green with red in a system that was designed for green can lead to seal failure.!

The coolants contain various additives to prevent corrosion etc. these are used up gradually no matter if your Viper is out hooning or sitting in the garage under a tarp so it is important to observe the change interval no matter how much driving you do. Generally it is a good idea to change the coolant every 2 years.

When you change the coolant it is important to get as much out as possible, so turn the heater to hot to open up the valve in the heating circuit, and don’t forget to vacuum the coolant from the overflow bottle in the facia and refill it with fresh.

There are two block drain points one on each cylinder bank and can be accessed from under the car, on Gen2 the right hand one is conveniently located above a sensor that makes getting to it a little more hassle than it needed to be. If you can get these drain plugs out it is worthwhile as another half bucket of coolant will drain from them.

It is a good idea to flush through the system with fresh water to clean it out. I usually do this buy flushing through the system with tap water until it flows clear at the drain plugs, replace the plugs and fill the system with water. There is a bleed valve on the top of the thermostat housing but this has a habit of seizing and given the size of the plug, an uncommon size plug wrench and where it is located many do not attempt to use this, an alternative is to fit the ROE Silicone hoses with a bleed valve or start the engine and let things warm up a little, keeping an eye on the temperature, when it starts getting hot the thermostat will open and vent the system. If things are getting too hot and the thermostat hasn’t opened, shut down the engine and let the heat soak open the thermostat. Once things are circulating well, and don’t forget the heater. Shut it all down and wait for it to cool. Drain and repeat until you are happy you have got out most of the old coolant. On the last flush use Deionised water so that you have very little tap water left in the system when you fill it for real.

When filling the system for the last time, add the correct amount of coolant first as there will be some water left in the system. Also out of this, mix up some to the correct dilution (50/50) and fill the overflow bottle in the facia. Once you have all the coolant in, top it off with deionised water, you will probably not be able to get the last litre or so in due to retained water in the block.

Once you have burped out the air below the thermostat, any further air should naturally vent the system over several hot/cold cycles. Keep an eye on the overflow level in the facia and top up as necessary. The system does work on a siphon to the overflow bottle so any leak in the system, no matter how small will break this resulting in air being drawn back in rather than coolant and usually resulting in running a few degrees hot, so fix any of those that you see.

Don’t forget, coolant will be hot and under pressure during parts of this process so no excuses for a visit to A&E.


Chassis Lube

stub

PCV

stub

Brake Pads/Disks


Rear Break pad replacement

DO NOT force the piston back in with a C clamp as you might do with other systems as this will damage the mechanism. Due to the hand break mechanism the rear break piston needs to be wound back into the calliper with a special tool. If you do not have the special tool some report success with long nose pliers. Others have constructed their own version of the special tool.

If anybody has had success with the tools which have been seen in general car spares shops which resemble a cube with various protrusions to universally fit multiple systems and are marketed for this purpose, I would be interested to hear if they fit the viper. -update, the cube thing doesn't fit! (ViperDave)

As for rear Pads for a Gen 2 non abs, check out the rear pads on a Renault laguna 94+ 3L petrol. They look the same and the EBC ones i ordered came in a box marked Laguna, safran espace etc!

Spark Plugs and Wires

Gen1, Gen2
Spark plug P/n Champion RC12-LYC torque to 20 lbs

Gen3
Champion RC12ECC

Gen4
Champion RE10PMC5

Washer Fluid

hehepunch

Blinker Fluid

Can be checked by comparing the bubble against the marks in the glass inspection chamber in the headlight enclosure Tea

Paint Codes

If ever you need a part/parts re-sprayed, you'll need the Dodge/Chrysler Paint Codes:
Viper GTS Blue - Chrysler code: PBE
Stripes, Stone White - Chrysler code: PW1
All paint codes begin with P can be found on chassis plate. Can obtain paint code form Chrysler/Dodge dealer by suppling them with the VIN, only for main vehicle colour not the stripes.
Website with details of Mopar Paint Codes: Paint Codes Link

Hood Ajustment

Link to thread regarding hood adjustment tips and info:
Info Here


Mopar Viper Part Numbers Catalogues


1992-96_Viper.pdf
1997_Viper.pdf
1998_Viper.pdf
1999_Viper.pdf
2000_Viper.pdf
2001_Viper.pdf
2002_Viper.pdf
2003_Viper.pdf
2004_Viper.pdf
2005_Viper.pdf
2006_Viper.pdf
2008_Viper.pdf
2004_Ram.pdf
2005_Ram.pdf
2006_Ram.pdf


Tremec T56 Gearbox - Service Manual


Tremec T56 Service Manual (PDF)
Cached copyT-56_Service_Manual.pdf